I would be posting a sassy commentary on my non-jerkin project were it not for the damnable zipper insertion question, and my failure to be able to catch the underside of the placket. It is just too heartbreaking, because this 22″ center back lapped zipper looks absolutely gorgeous to me,
But then I cut the basting thread and inside it was all carnage and failure. Sigh.
Here’s the shiny silver lining — I can totally pull this sucker over my head. Oh, okay, I have to wiggle some but it can be done! So maybe I will just call this finished and practice some lapped zippers in muslin for a while, since the next chapter isn’t about sewing, it is about fitting. Isn’t that exciting?
A few side comments:
What is up with Butterick for designing a pattern for knits that has enough ease that a pear-shaped lady of a certain age can pull it over her head in a woven, calls for a freakin’ TWENTY TWO inch zipper?
Also, this dress is seriously cuter than I thought it would be.
Back to the topic at hand. Here is the part of the book where Ms. B loses me, and I fail to make the zipper work out right:
Arrange garment with zipper face down over front seam allowance, forming a pleat at placket end. Draw toward front when pinning in place (emphasis mine. What the Hell does this even mean? Draw toward the front of the garment, which is under the back, which I am pinning?) Keep zipper tab up. Stitch across bottom and along zipper, close to chain, following woven-in stitch guideline (that is another thing — apparently zippers used to have a guide line stitched onto them to guide the sewer at this step but my zipper had no such thing.) Blah blah blah, when you are more advanced you should hand pick your zipper.
So, nowhere in there is there a measurement, like “form an X inch placket” or “stitch X of an inch from the tape” so how is this anything more than a shot in the dark? I must be missing something because The Bishop Method does not advocate winging it.
Obviously this zipper technique must work — everything in the book works, and has been working for seamstresses, sewers, and sewists alike for decades. So what am I missing?